The Great Crossing

For a few weeks now, my friend, Jeff, and I have been talking about how much we wanted to try swimming across the Niger river in Bamako. Today we did it and it was every bit as fulfilling as I thought it would be but also quite a different experience than the one I imagined. First of all I thought we would be swimming a great majority of the distance if not the entire way. But the river is relatively low given that rainy season has not yet fully commenced. So although we did do some swimming, the majority of the distance we were able to cross on foot with the water hitting mid chest to shoulder. Looking at the picture above, we started on the Niger's south bank and swam north west to a very Hemingwayesque island in the stream. From there we traversed the island and swam almost due west to the next island. The rest of the way we swam and waded our way around various obstacles.

At no point was I ever fearful of the current taking me, but there were a couple moments when I got pretty exhausted and realized the potential that I could end up further down stream than I had intended. But thankfully I was able to push through it when I needed to and often I just planted my feet on the rolling rocks below to give myself a breather. And with Jeff leading the way I was able to prepare myself for the areas where the river bottom escaped us.

About half way in between the second island and the other side of the river, Jeff and I looked around and were able to really take in the view. It was so peaceful. The hubbub of the cars and motorcycles zooming back and forth along the bridge remained ever visible. We could still see all the women bent at the hips over their laundry on the banks of the river just up stream from hordes of splashing children. But far from those banks, in the middle of all this water, wading chest deep through the Niger's murky flow, the invasive, cacophony of Bamako slipped away and I just stood there letting the scenery soak in, wash over me.

This is without a doubt one of my favorite experiences here in Mali and I only regret not having a camera with me to capture every moment of it. Now lets just see if I was fortunate enough to escape schistosomiasis.

(Thanks Micah for all your help with the graphic! And thanks to Mariel for creatively naming our adventure "The Great Crossing!")